From this renowned grand cru in the southern tier of the Cote des Blancs, Larmandier’s Cramant is textbook stuff: beautifully brioche-y, yet with a driving floral elegance and an effortlessly pungent minerality characteristic of Chardonnay grown in a place where it’s truly at home. Vinified entirely in stainless steel to highlight the wine’s chalky soul, this disgorgement is a blend of two-thirds 2012 vintage and one-third 2011. The Cramant is perhaps the wine for which this estate has become the most renowned stateside through the years, and t