Jean-Marie, the fourth generation to work the family domaine, is obsessive about fruit quality, routinely selling off all the fruit from vines younger than 30 years of age. Rather than green-harvesting in the summer, he prunes severely in the winter to limit yield. And all grapes are sorted in the vineyard to avoid contact with any unhealthy fruit. New oak is limited to 20% to favor transparency.As a result, Jean-Marie makes some of Burgundy’s most gloriously expressive wines. His reds share a common thread of superb balance, captivating elegan