In her tiny cold cellar, Ledru’s approach was just as simple and natural. The primary fermentation took place in stainless steel and enamel tanks for purity, and the wines always completed malolactic. Marie-Nöelle never used filtration or cold-stabilization, and allowed the vintage cuvées to develop for five years on the lees. And she riddled and disgorged every bottle by hand, without adding sulfur and with very low or zero dosage.The results were some of the greatest Champagnes of our time, the definition of Ambonnay’s surreal alliance of po